Punta Gorda is the oldest Garifuna settlement in Honduras, dating back to 1784, I think, when a boat load of slaves travelled here from St Vincent in the eastern Carib. Not sure about the details but I understand they had been set off a ship in St Vincent, and they made or stole a boat and came this way. The Garifuna still celebrate the date as we do our Independence Day, and they paint the colors of their flag in their homes, and on their buildings and even the telephone poles have the stripes - black, white, and gold, I think. Rocky demonstrates his great pride in his home town, and took as much pleasure showing me around as I remember my dad doing to visitors in Pittsburgh.
So, Rocky's mom made us a lunch after we took a walk along the road and Rocky gave me the tour of the area. Fried shrimp, pasta, and rice. Was a great lunch. And then we gathered 2 of his buddies and the 4 of us set off for a swim, out to the reef. This old fat guy did pretty well, keeping up with these kids.
What a great trip! Just after slipping into the water from the dock off a palapa owned by a bar, a big sting ray swam by me, perhaps 6 feet away. And as we made our way out, the guys were looking hard for lobster and conch, having taken some sticks with a big fishing hook on the end, used to snag lobsters from their holes in the coral.
Rocky spied 2 lion fish for me and I later found one on my own. Lion fish are the only species that the government WANTS the locals to kill, as they are so poisonous, and I heard that they eat the corals, but not sure about that. Rocky has really sharp eyes, and spotted and re-spotted a 2 1/2 foot moray eel swimming on the bottom through sea grass, obviously hunting. It was so well camouflaged that I lost it in the grass several times, but Rocky would re-find it and point it out for me.
Then we swam over a really big area of clean, white sand, and it was dotted with huge starfish - we counted at least 30 and there had to be dozens and dozens - each 18 inches. When we arrived at the reef, Rocky found a lobster in the coral and handed me the stick to try my hand at snagging it out of its hiding place, but I just don't have that skill down yet, and lost it. Amazing how fast they swim when they want to escape.
When we were finished, we took the long swim back to the dock - perhaps 20 or 30 minutes, and I ran up to the bar and bought us a few beers. Below is Rocky, enjoying his first. These are the 3 guys who, I must say, kept an eye out for my safety and to make sure I had a good time. The boy in the water is 17, and recently lost his father in a shooting, and I must say, I have Gringo misgivings buying him beers, but bought several for him. I know I cannot impose my US standards or morals on these people, but still..... buying beers for a 17 year old is way out of character for me. Neither of these 2 speak English, so there was little inter-action between us, other than slapping the water and pointing at things for me.
After that first beer, it was time to clean the conch. Some of the little guys came out to play in the water too. That is Rocky's little brother in the water. I ended up buying everyone a 'fresca' - a coke or sprite or whatever they wanted. It was fun watching the kids play, even though I didn't understand anything they said or laughed about.This is a view back from the dock, and that house on the right is Rocky's home. The yellow one is his grandmother's but she is in New York City, (yuck!) visiting Rocky's aunt and uncle, who live in Brooklyn.Rocky's little brother, who he says is very smart and in the 4th grade, but no English, yet. This is the beach in the other direction. Lots of bars in Punta Gorda, and 2 churches. I have always wondered why I see the kids here in Roatan leaving school so early in the day, thinking perhaps they go a half day for economic reasons, but found out from Rocky that they go at 630, and school starts at 7am. That way, they are in school for the cooler part of the day, and don't have to sit all afternoon in the tropical heat.
Further down this beach is a new building on stilts being built, financed by an American. It will be a trade school and the kids will be taught English, French, and Italian, so they can work in the tourism industry here. Cheers to THAT guy, for doing something really good for this community!
That kid in the water seemed to always have some joke going on, probably at this old fat Gringo's expense, but usually, Rocky wouldn't tell me what it was about. When we were first setting out, there were 2 little kids using an old refrigerator shell as a boat, and I wish I had had my camera then. They were having a ball, and were very comfortable playing in this rocking and rolling box, with no keel.
No comments:
Post a Comment