Marigot Bay Dec 30th

So many things to learn yet. I was not prepared for the swells here, although Paul had warned me about it, so living on anchor the last few days has been quite an experience. It is not, lately, the idyllic version of tropical paradise on anchor. Nor is it like the Severn River last year, or any of the places I anchored in Florida. AF is riding 6-8 foot waves as they head to shore - only 1/4 mile away, where I can hear them crash. Also, as they roll by me, some start to break about 100 yards from here, where the bottom starts to rise. Below is a picture taken from the dink showing the rocks not far downwind, and down - waves from me about 1/4 nm -

Several - perhaps smarter? - captains have moved their boats further from land, and I must tell you that when coming in or going out on the dink, I see the waves crashing on the rocks near me, and it gives me great pause. Also, a boat at anchor points into the wind. So when it is 90 degrees from these swells, the roll is incredible.

The other night I watched from the cockpit, all of the anchor lights in the dark. The arc of swing of some was amazing to see and I can assume that mine looked the same. A much lighter boat next to me looked dangerous - like a ship in a storm at sea, the way it was getting lifted and tossed - but it is closer to where they are breaking early than I am. It is still a bit un-nerving to actually HEAR breaking waves go by you, in the dark, as you feel the boat lifted 5 or 6 or 7 ft, and you think of surfing.

I am also having to learn to drive the dink into and up and down the waves. Really bounced on a couple the other night in the dark. Would have been really exciting if I had had the 15 hp engine on, but was just putting along with the 4hp. Still, came down on the other side of the swell with a big crash, and it sobered me up, for sure.

I must admit in an affectionate way, I am glad my French friends are going to fly home tomorrow, for a month. Also, Bernard is going to St Bart's for a few days to visit friends there. That will leave me ALONE - no invitations to breakfast, or lunch, or dinner, or for wine after dinner, perhaps I will get something done here on AF. At every setting, there is wine. Good, cheap, French wine. Or beer. But mostly wine. So, I do not get that much done on the days that I begin at Bernard's. But, it has been so much fun.

Today, I walked over to the area called Belle Vue, to a recommended hair cutter, and now have a nice French style haircut. From the look on his face, I don't think he is happy that I asked for a picture. But, it is a heck of a life that I now measure my haircuts in foreign countries. This fellow also had no English, but understood that I wanted it short, but still able to part it. He learned the trade in Montpelier, France.

Then I walked to a 'junk' store to buy some clothes pins, and toilet plunger and new belt - (I am losing some weight I think)- exciting life, huh? - then a cafe au lait and raison tarte and later, an ice cream cone. It seems that at every open air restaurant there is someone trying to steal my meal. This is described to me by my French friends as a Sugar Bird, because he likes sugar, I guess:

I stopped to buy an internet card to try the WiFi from anchor. It is 5 Euro for a day, or 40 for a month, so that is expensive, but I have missed it the last couple of days. Then I spoke with the French expert on hydraulics. He asked me to come back tomorrow because his helper will be there, and HE can speak English. Jean-Marc does not but we did OK and he understands that I have hydraulic troubles, have a Hynautic system (showed me pictures in the catalogue of several pumps and the identification marks), and cannot tell me what it would cost to replace it yet. ( I think that Anne-Marie and her family, would be amazed at how well I have gotten along with my terrible French, and so far have only met a couple real jerks.)

To top off the day, I dug out my keyboard and beer case of music, from amongst all the stuff in the V-berth, and wrapped it up well, and dinked into Bernard's where I played for my friends until the rain came. Just before departing AF, I saw my first real tornado, which is pictured below. You might be able to make out the funnel dropping from the cloud and stirring the water below. So, tonight, I am getting banged around a bit, in the swell and wind, and my snubber keeps catching on my No. 2 anchor and it clangs loud enough to scare me each time. But, I am making progress towards repairs, and new projects, and that is a good thing. Tomorrow, I will speak with the Jean-Marc about the hydraulics, and then will pick up Jean and Josieane at their boat on mooring, and take them ashore so they can go to the airport for their trip home. Just had an email from the lady from NC who gave me some fancy cigarette the other night over at Ric's and she says to call her any day and she will tell me where 'happy hour" is going to be that night. Such nice folks you meet out here.

Going to go up and sit in the cockpit, and watch the world go by (hopefully not for real - that would mean the anchor was dragging) and have a last glass, and head to bed.

Love to all......