Happy New Year's to all

Sitting on the boat, enjoying not very good internet connection, high winds, choppy seas, for my New Year's party, alone, of course. Is my life that I have chosen, so that is OK.

Took a few minutes to map out the trip on Google Earth, for those who care:

This morning was startled by a knock on the boat early, and was a Frenchman with dink engine troubles, so I towed him into the Lagoon. Returned, to get my shoes and wallet, and was followed by an American who wanted directions to the Customs, and I led the way to the Customs Immigration office here. Then took Jean and Josiane into shore from their boat on mooring, for the ride to the airport. Rained off and on all day, but the wind has been a steady 19 knots -gusting to 25. Great. And the clouds are winter grey, and ugly. Where is Paradise? This is too much like St George's Bay!

Saw the American later at shore with his 2 kids, and he asked me if I was in Baltimore last year. He remembers me from Inner Harbor East Marina. What a small world.

So, will have a quiet, I hope, night here. My love and Happy New Year's to all.

Marigot Bay Dec 30th

So many things to learn yet. I was not prepared for the swells here, although Paul had warned me about it, so living on anchor the last few days has been quite an experience. It is not, lately, the idyllic version of tropical paradise on anchor. Nor is it like the Severn River last year, or any of the places I anchored in Florida. AF is riding 6-8 foot waves as they head to shore - only 1/4 mile away, where I can hear them crash. Also, as they roll by me, some start to break about 100 yards from here, where the bottom starts to rise. Below is a picture taken from the dink showing the rocks not far downwind, and down - waves from me about 1/4 nm -

Several - perhaps smarter? - captains have moved their boats further from land, and I must tell you that when coming in or going out on the dink, I see the waves crashing on the rocks near me, and it gives me great pause. Also, a boat at anchor points into the wind. So when it is 90 degrees from these swells, the roll is incredible.

The other night I watched from the cockpit, all of the anchor lights in the dark. The arc of swing of some was amazing to see and I can assume that mine looked the same. A much lighter boat next to me looked dangerous - like a ship in a storm at sea, the way it was getting lifted and tossed - but it is closer to where they are breaking early than I am. It is still a bit un-nerving to actually HEAR breaking waves go by you, in the dark, as you feel the boat lifted 5 or 6 or 7 ft, and you think of surfing.

I am also having to learn to drive the dink into and up and down the waves. Really bounced on a couple the other night in the dark. Would have been really exciting if I had had the 15 hp engine on, but was just putting along with the 4hp. Still, came down on the other side of the swell with a big crash, and it sobered me up, for sure.

I must admit in an affectionate way, I am glad my French friends are going to fly home tomorrow, for a month. Also, Bernard is going to St Bart's for a few days to visit friends there. That will leave me ALONE - no invitations to breakfast, or lunch, or dinner, or for wine after dinner, perhaps I will get something done here on AF. At every setting, there is wine. Good, cheap, French wine. Or beer. But mostly wine. So, I do not get that much done on the days that I begin at Bernard's. But, it has been so much fun.

Today, I walked over to the area called Belle Vue, to a recommended hair cutter, and now have a nice French style haircut. From the look on his face, I don't think he is happy that I asked for a picture. But, it is a heck of a life that I now measure my haircuts in foreign countries. This fellow also had no English, but understood that I wanted it short, but still able to part it. He learned the trade in Montpelier, France.

Then I walked to a 'junk' store to buy some clothes pins, and toilet plunger and new belt - (I am losing some weight I think)- exciting life, huh? - then a cafe au lait and raison tarte and later, an ice cream cone. It seems that at every open air restaurant there is someone trying to steal my meal. This is described to me by my French friends as a Sugar Bird, because he likes sugar, I guess:

I stopped to buy an internet card to try the WiFi from anchor. It is 5 Euro for a day, or 40 for a month, so that is expensive, but I have missed it the last couple of days. Then I spoke with the French expert on hydraulics. He asked me to come back tomorrow because his helper will be there, and HE can speak English. Jean-Marc does not but we did OK and he understands that I have hydraulic troubles, have a Hynautic system (showed me pictures in the catalogue of several pumps and the identification marks), and cannot tell me what it would cost to replace it yet. ( I think that Anne-Marie and her family, would be amazed at how well I have gotten along with my terrible French, and so far have only met a couple real jerks.)

To top off the day, I dug out my keyboard and beer case of music, from amongst all the stuff in the V-berth, and wrapped it up well, and dinked into Bernard's where I played for my friends until the rain came. Just before departing AF, I saw my first real tornado, which is pictured below. You might be able to make out the funnel dropping from the cloud and stirring the water below. So, tonight, I am getting banged around a bit, in the swell and wind, and my snubber keeps catching on my No. 2 anchor and it clangs loud enough to scare me each time. But, I am making progress towards repairs, and new projects, and that is a good thing. Tomorrow, I will speak with the Jean-Marc about the hydraulics, and then will pick up Jean and Josieane at their boat on mooring, and take them ashore so they can go to the airport for their trip home. Just had an email from the lady from NC who gave me some fancy cigarette the other night over at Ric's and she says to call her any day and she will tell me where 'happy hour" is going to be that night. Such nice folks you meet out here.

Going to go up and sit in the cockpit, and watch the world go by (hopefully not for real - that would mean the anchor was dragging) and have a last glass, and head to bed.

Love to all......

Thought that I would try this-

Below are 2 short videos I shot while at sea. I wish I had thought of it when the weather was rougher, so you could see a bit what it is like. But I hope this gives a tast of sailing to those who don't know it. Keep the volume down - the wind noise is very loud.

This was shot about half way through the trip to St Martin - about 1000 miles east of southern Florida or Havana Cuba.

Christmas - French style -

Internet is coming and going today, so will be brief.
This is my nouveaux ami, Jean, who along with his mate, Josieane, has been just a great friend. We met in Bermuda, and when I anchored here in Marigot Bay, St Martin, there was Kurika, their Amel, 100 meters in front of me. They have introduced me to 2 friends who live here - Bernard, who is rebuilding a sailboat on the hard - for TEN years - and Peggy, who hosted me for Christmas day dinner. This is Jean and I on Christmas Eve.

Bernard, moi,Peggy, and Josieane, at Peggy's home.

Et, une autre photograph-

2 days ago, here at what was Ric's and now Bonita's, on the Dutch side, I met a wonderful couple from the US. At their table were 2 lovely Russian ladies, who asked to visit my boat, and so I picked them up, along with Oksana's delightful 11 year old daughter, Paulina for a nice visit on AF. Afterwards, I met them again at a restaurant, and remembered to a take a picture - below.

Thursday-December 17 252pm

I wrote what you find below at sea, on my third day out, I think. Now, safe in what was Ric's Place and now Bonita's Cafe, on the Dutch side of St Marten, enjoying a Presidente draft and just had a hamburger and fries.

I have said many times that my schedule is now carved in marshmallow or jello. My departure was delayed a number of times - Customs wouldn’t let me sign out when I told them I was departing in 2 hours because they had my weapons, and 2 hours was too long to have them aboard before departure. So, I had to go back a 2nd time. Much to do before I could leave - so many loose things about needing stowed somewhere and somehow.
My mind was not the best when I arrived and started moving things, so I couldn’t remember things had been, and I had moved some things into the forward berth, not that it had room to spare! Then, a quick walk around the boat checking things before actually weighing anchor and my port light was out. It took me an hour to figure out where the fault was, and re-wire it. The rather expensive LED light was corroded and had to be pitched, replaced with a reg 12v incandescent bulb - glad I had a spare.
So it was about 730 when I weighed anchor and took a ride around the bay in the dark, testing the steering - both helm and autopilot. And then I called out Bermuda Radio, who had received my email thanking them, and I slowly crept out Town Cut, St George, Bermuda, into the open ocean.
I have since learned from the head of Bermuda Marine Service that my email was published in the Royal Gazette. Take a minute at the link below - it is a slow website - and read the second letter to editor down:

http://www.royalgazette.com/rg/Article/article.jsp?sectionId=75&articleId=7d9cbaf30030001

The steering troubles have returned, in a much more minor way. I believe at this time that I will be able to bleed it if I come into some calm waters. Will lower sails and motor in circles until I feel it is safe. Or even stop and bleed the cylinder. At first I was certain it was a bad case of weather helm- the boat is tuned to sail into the wind. (I knew a man years ago who took me for a ride on his boat, and it had bad weather helm. He said it was in case he fell overboard, and his wife MIGHT be able to get the boat back to him.) The rudder indicator showed 8-10 degrees port when the boat seemed to be going straight ahead. Now, I don’t know.

Today, I love this. The boat is rolling a lot and we are in a following sea of about 8-12 foot waves. I lowered the main last night to try to relieve the auto pilot of this’ weather helm’ situation. I think that the boat took a lot of knocking about during my ordeal and none of it was apparent in the bay in Bermuda. Lots more creaking noises make me think I broke a tab or 2 on some of the walls. We are doing a regular 6 knots, and it is very comfortable for me. I am not stressed out with rushing water, banging waves and all the loud noises that can keep me awake.
I wrote an email to the man in charge at Bermuda Radio, thanking them and copied the editor of the newspaper. I hope they edit and publish it. Those people have my deep gratitude, and the people of St George were wonderful to me. A man I have nodded to a few times, and spoke with while fueling up the other day, owns a prominent fishing boat, and rode by me Monday, and shouted out that he would be back with some fish for me. I figured it was the local con to force me to buy some fish. When I dinked into town the first time to Customs, he called me over to the boat, where he was cleaning wahoo, and made me a nice plate of butterfly-ed steaks. Would not take a penny. Wow. Just so kind - everyone there. Sandra at Bermuda Yacht Services, her son, Mark, who owns it, the boys at the Dink Club, the girl at the market who rang me up so many times.
Today, as I write this, I am over 1000 miles due east of Ft Lauderdale. It is my 3rd day at sea. I am getting my 100-120 miles a day in, and that pleases me a lot. The weather is to change to worse in 2 days, so it would be better further south. I jibed the boat earlier, but it had me headed too far east and not enough south so I opted to return to the earlier course, which has me hitting Puerto Rico, if I don’t head back east, but there are westerly winds predicted in 2 days, so I shall pick up some more easting.
I looked down at the car that the jib sheet runs through on the port side after jibing back, and the screw had come out and the pin in the center of the block was half out. Yesterday it was the top shackle on the main sheet block. You have to look at everything everyday, as wear and vibration causes havoc. I rigged a line to take the strain off the sheet and screwed it back in, but it definitely was worn from the beating I took when I lost my steering.
Going to start a list of work I want to do in St Maarten. I am going to Marigot instead of the Dutch side, as the French friend I made told me that I could save money checking in at a certain place vs. the Dutch govt check in. We shall see.

From St Marten, now - Dec 26
From sea - about 4th day out, a distant rain storm:
It is good practice, every morning after the sun has risen, to walk the deck to look for things out of place, broken, or wear. Also, you must find all of the flying fish which found their way to your deck during the night. (While transiting north, last year, one hit me in the face a night. It could easily put my eye out. A very hard head, with sharp, spikey 'wings' and flying with a lot of force.)Gold on Blue-The sargasso weed floating on the morning sea, looks like woven gold, shimmering in the sunlight. (Will also clog up the thru-hulls and tear up a pump impellor.)
You might recall from Bermuda posts, my Canadian friends, Mack and Al. I only saw 2 sailboats and 2 container ships during 10 days at sea. The Canadians left 3 days before me, and I came upon them on my 8th day. They had encountered engine troubles, and needed oil, but when they learned that I had steering troubles, decided that it was safer to refuse it, and not risk a close encounter at sea.
Tired, smelly for sure, and needing a shave, I snapped this pic on my 9th day, early in the morning, before I remembered to take off my "headlight".





I have some nice pictures of my Christmas and will post later.

December 24, 2009

Arrived safely in Marigot Bay, St Marten about 10 am this morning. Having Christmas eve supper with my French friends on shore, with a friend of theirs, and will add more later, with better internet.
But it is a Merry Christmas, for me, and I send it on to everyone who follows.
More later.

Tuesday - 2:35 pm

I always say that my schedule now is chiseled in Jello. I should have left yesterday, but hoped for noon today. Went in to run last errands, and check out with Customs, but they would not permit it, as I told them I would be departing in 2 hours, and that is too long for them to give me flare guns and weapons back. It must be the last thing I do, before raising the dink on deck, I guess.

So, about to head back in, and should be away within the hour.

If I am at sea on the 25th, then Merry Christmas to all, now. Should be back online in about 9-12 days with lots of news, and pics, I am sure.

Preparing for Departure

I am preparing for departure tomorrow afternoon or Tuesday morning. While I was cleaning up a bit, it occurred to me to try this Google Earth Map image. It shows my path, so far, based on my positions I wrote in my SSB emails while enroute. At my furthest point south, I was 888 miles due east of the Georgia/Florida border, and my trip so far, has been about 800 nm or over 900 miles. I drifted for the 36 hours about 60 miles, and hand steered the boat with the emergency tiller, about 130 nm. Bermuda is 873 miles due east of Charleston, SC, so I lost all of the coast of Georgia coming here. I moved AF to the fuel dock today and filled up with fuel and some water, with the help of a French couple I had spoken to several times, but met formally Friday. Wonderful couple - he is a retired Air France pilot, who started his career on the old Caravelle jet and ended flying 747's. She is now an artist, and quite good. When they offered to help me weigh anchor and get into the fuel dock, I didn't know that he would have had 5 or 6 glasses of wine first, so he was a bit - shall we say - demonstrative? emphatic? French??? with his suggestions and recommendations, but it made it a lot more fun for me, and I laughed at most all of it. We dropped her off at the fuel dock from the dink, so she could take a line thrown when we got there, and then he and I rode out to AF, and got the anchor in - I had almost all of 300 feet of rode out. I made some turns to check the steering, and in we went (but not before he had a nice pee over the side - these French!), and it went perfectly, including the departure, with her aboard. Well, there were no loud crashes or even quiet scraping sounds, if you call that perfect! But was expensive fuel!

I brought AF over to the better anchorage, and now we are nestled amongst all the other boats, in a much more sheltered and shallow area. (Good thing, too, as I just heard 40 knot gusts forecast on Marine Weather, for either tonight or tomorrow night - not sure.) We shared a few glasses of wine, more, (it was a box wine I had bought at Denise's liquor store my last trip that way.) and I opened some Black Diamond Cheese I had frozen and sliced it up, and we had a good time visiting in my cockpit. They have invited me for an early lunch tomorrow, and there is a very good chance I shall try to depart and sail along with them, as we both are going to St Maarten - of course they are going in at the French side. They will out sail me, I am sure, but it will be fun to have a companion boat, even for a bit. Will see how long it lasts. They have a smaller Amel than Paul's, but she will out sail me I am sure in every way, AND I will be more conservative in my sail size.

So, much to do in preparation, including picking up my outboard, fixed or not. Will make one more entry before departure, and then will be offline for a while.

Chase, Yamaha, and Christmas Party

Two nights ago, the day after I slipped on the steps, I pulled the dink up and climbed in to clean that fuel filter, since it had really let me down the day before. It runs so consistently well, and then, for no apparent reason, starts acting up, and it is not something new. Has been like this since I bought the boat. But I cleaned the carb really well this summer in Pittsburgh, and it has been pretty reliable since I arrived here. (For non boaters, the dink is my car. It is the way to get to the store, or restaurant, or town. St George is a very cruiser friendly town, with a nice dinghy dock, and some businesses have one as well. When you live on anchor, you must have a reliable dink. ) So, I cleaned the filter, took a screwdriver and started playing with the mixture, idle speed, and even touched the timing just a bit, and for the first time, I thought it was purring wonderfully - the timing adjustment was a new fix for me. That night, I went over to the dink club with laundry, for supper and a few beers. It stalled as I arrived and was very hard to re-start. There was the local mechanic at the club, and he loaned me a screwdriver in case I needed it, with an appointment to see him the next day. I got her started again, and about 50 yards out of the club marina, she stalled again. At a certain speed she runs great, though. The seas were just too rough to go too fast. But, I got home OK.

When I was paying my tab at the restaurant, my Chase Visa was declined. I had just paid the bill online - I try to pay it twice a month. I used my debit, and left. When I got onto AF, late, with the engine troubles, I used Skype on a poor wifi connection to call them, and in 5 calls managed to glean that 1- the card was compromised 2- it was reported to Chase by a police agency 3-there were Netflix charges on it 4-there was nothing they could do but cancel it.

Yesterday, I took the the dink over to Bryan's dock on the south shore of the bay, with the 4hp aboard, in case I had to leave the 15hp. Bryan worked on it for over an hour, doing the same things that I do, and did, and finally was sure it was better. I said, "Put your money where your mouth is," and untied the painter and he took off in it. About 75 yards later, it failed. And failed again, and again, and again, and eventually, he disappeared from view, blown by the wind. He finally made it back, and the engine was offloaded and taken to his shop. We put the 4hp on and that is what I will use until Monday. Goes kinda slow in this wind, that is for sure.

I stopped at AF and got the Acer and went into Bermuda Yacht Service, to use Skype on their hi speed wifi, and called Chase. Nothing they can do but re-issue the card, and it will be weeks before I can get the new one after it is mailed to Florida, forwarded to me in some port, activate it, and be able to use it. Glad I have the Master Card hidden away. Did a bit of grocery shopping, came back to AF and put some nicer clothes on, with my rain gear over top, and went in to the Christmas Party.

This is a long shot from the south shore. AF is to the left.

A closeup of AF from the South Shore.

While waiting for Bryan to come back in the dink, they towed in the long aluminum boat, on the right. That is the smaller government tow/rescue boat on the left. This boat, from what I heard on the radio, had lost her steering like I had.

Very, very nice party, and met some new friends, but knew about a third of the folks there, from meeting at the Dinghy Club or other businesses. And, of course, the cruisers that I have met, as well. The young couple whose 28 Cape Dory lost its mast were there, and I congratulated them on getting the new one installed.

Drank a beer called Carlsberg Elephant, and found out why they chose the name. It is about 12 or 16% alcohol, and two make you tipsy, for sure. Guess if you drink too many, you feel like you were stepped on by an elephant the next day. Good traditional party food, and lots of fun and laughs. Left early though, before it got out of hand.

Below is Town Hall with Christmas lights. I was standing to the far right when I saw the queen.

Met a nice French couple on - what else? An Amel. They have invited me to visit, and have offered to ride along to the fuel dock with me, to fend and handle lines. Very nice. Older couple with decent English, although he asked her in French a few times to clarify what I said.

So, I am waiting for the 15 to be fixed. Bryan is as amazed as I am about it. He also thought he had it running perfectly. I think that it could end up being a flaky power pack, but he still things carb troubles. We shall see.......

No Pictures Today

I took a bit of a spill yesterday, coming back from the hardware store. (Dowel rod for a flag staff, spare nuts for the Westerbeke water pump, and a ring for some keys - they couldn't find a nut to match the life lines that I wanted. I later figured out why. It is left handed thread!). The wind was howling, and the concrete sea wall was to the lee, with steps formed into it. Had a heck of a time tieing up the dink. I should have gone into town, sheltered from 3 sides and walked to the store, but I stayed and the dink was being bounced into the seawall by the wind and waves. To exit the dink, I finally had to step out onto a landing, formed with the steps, into a foot of water, soaking my shoes and jeans. (It is cool enough in the wind to have to wear long pants.) When I returned, I pitched my bag into the dink, and started down the steps, and on the 2nd, slipped and bang, bang, bang, was on my butt bouncing down 3, and ending up in the landing, in a foot of sloshing seawater. Thank you non skid soles on my Topsiders! I was soaked from above the waist down. Then, the 15 Yamaha would not stay running. I assumed it was sediment in the fuel, but it was way too bouncy to try to take the cover off and empty and clear the filter, so I ended up goosing it, and putting it in gear, almost hanging myself on some lines, but came straight back to AF. Cold, hurting, and wet.
I peeled off the wet things, dried myself, and put something dry on, and stayed put. Rough night with the pain in my hip waking me each time I turned over. Winds have been a bit high. About 20 knots steady with gusts to 28, and AF is bouncing about a bit , and sailing in the wind.

Today, I ached. And then I started to clean up, and put things away, for departure. Also, after looking all over the boat for the DeWalt drill, fashioned a new flagstaff, and tied my small US flag to in, and now, am properly rigged for international sailing.

To demonstrate my courage, I took in the emergency tiller, and will stow it properly tomorrow. All of the tools used in the tiller trouble, and the genset trouble have been put away, leaving a plumber's torch to melt the end of the sheet (rope) for the jib, when I cut it in half to eliminate the bad chafe. Thanks, Mike, for doing it this way.

I worked on the outboard a bit, tied and bouncing against AF's beam, and thought I really had it improved. Adjusted the timing just a bit, and turned down the idle, and, of course, cleaned the filter. I let her run for 20 minutes and she was perfect. Put in gear and nosed up to AF's beam and revved it, and all was good, and let it idle in neutral and it never popped one time. So, tonight when I took off for the Dinghy Club for drinks and dinner and a load of laundry, it stalled as I throttled down to enter the marina area, and continued to stall, each time I started it. What am I going to do with this outboard?

Turns out, a fellow, recommended a few weeks ago, I had a beer with the other day, is THE mechanic in this town, and hopefully, I will get it over to him in the morning. He is across the bay, in the opposite direction from town - towards the airport.

Bermuda Yacht Service is having a Christmas party for cruisers and employees, tomorrow after 4, and I would love to attend. Need reliable transportation back to AF, though.

They successfully recovered the sailboat that had lost her master. And the un-published story is, that when the ship came to remove the man's body, they lost the metal litter and his body, into the sea. Dropped it all right into the ocean. The family in Australia is heart broken, but I hope that mine would not be. My dad taught us that, after death, the body is just meat, and the soul is gone, to heaven hopefully. It was probably a philosophy acquired during his years in apprenticeship as a mortician. But, now, without a body, the boat is a crime scene, and the recovery crew were not supposed to go below, or touch anything, which made the recovery more difficult. The boat had taken a wave at some point, as well as having dead batteries, and with water 6 inches above the sole, was a bit of trouble getting to Bermuda.

Nice hamburger and fries and Stella's at the dink club. Chase would not allow my credit card to take the $70 drinks and dinner charge ( I bought a round, after someone bought me one) , and there was no way to call from there. This will continue to be a problem for me in the future, but, at this point, I don't know how to solve it. **Update: 5 Skype calls failed in mid-call to Chase, but was able to find out that my card has been "compromised", meaning some law enforcement agency has reported it to them, "from local police to the CIA". In the hand of some criminal element. Now what do I do? Was going to buy fuel and water, if necessary, tomorrow or the next day, using it. Damn thieves are better at this stuff than the police are, I think. Will try Skype tomorrow from a better wifi location. Damn!
Abdul and Roger are great. I inquired as to whom was driving the MG - Midget outside, and it is Abdul's. Wow. Very nice guys, and I met a fellow who has made his money doing construction - celebrity homes here on the island - Bloomberg, for one - took 3 years to build - and told some great stories. Also, he ran the generators and compressors when they made the movie The Deep here, so knew Bisset, Shaw, Nolte, Wallach, and the director, and had each as guests in his home. Nolte must have stayed for weeks, they way he talked. Had some personal tales about each, but refused to pass them along, but for hints. Best part about this guy, is that at his shop, at the end of each work day, his cronies come, with six packs in hand, and they sit and shoot the breeze, and tell lies til time to go home. Sounds like my kind of place, and I wish I had met him 2 weeks ago. The latest topic is Tiger's troubles, by the way.

So, wind is howling again - supposed to be worse than yesterday - and should tame a bit tomorrow. This is the weather that has hurt central US and caused high wind reports in the south.
Wonderful place and people here. It is time to go, but I will miss more than a few I have met, in this 3+ weeks. Plan now is fueling tomorrow, if the wind dies, and departing Saturday, but, if you know me, that is hardly written in stone.

Hamilton Trip

I have put off sightseeing, because I felt there was important stuff to do, things to fix, and break, and fix again, here on AF. But my necessary trip to Immigration in Hamilton forced the issue, and so today I was a sightseer a bit.

Sandra at BYS - green bldg in previous post - told me yesterday to get up early and get on the bus, and be there when they opened, so that is what I did. The bay was glass when I left AF, and dinked in. It was the first time I locked the hatch! Really wanted to open up the dink and fly, but took my time. The all day bus pass was $12, and gets you on the ferry system as well, so after an hour's ride on what ended up being a crowded bus - I even offered my seat to a woman and stood the last 15 minutes - I stepped off at the bus terminal downtown. The ride was very nice and picturesque, and the drivers, both in and back, were amazing to thread the bus through some pretty narrow bends.

A couple blocks walk to the Federal Building and I had my number for the line. And was the next called, too. Met with a very nice, attractive, and very formal young lady who extended my stay here another 2 weeks. I was shocked when I heard the date - a couple days before Christmas. I HAVE to get out of here!

Scooter parking on Front Street, where I ordered a lot of booze, duty free, saving, perhaps 1/3 to 1/2 of US cost. It will be delivered to the Customs dock here, and I will pick it up when I am cleared to depart:

Walked out and found the Lemon Tree Restaurant, which 2 different men told me was a great girl-watching spot at lunch. I didn't get to hang around for noon but had a nice sandwich, which the fellow below wanted me to share:

And I wish the picture below showed better, but this old, very distinguished Bemudan came in, got a coffee and opened his paper, to be joined by the lady. But, after he lit a cigarette, I saw what is my image of an Old English Bermudan gentleman. Dressed to the 9's and very elegant. (The picture really was NOT taken to get the lady in the background, who was diligently reading some report, and making notes.)When I left, I had to hurry as I had to get to the ferry terminal for the trip to the Navy Yards; ferry departing at noon, where I walked about 5 blocks and turned around and rode back on the same ferry. It is just a tourist spot, and where the cruise ships tie up. And I had been told there was a West Marine type store there. Oh, well.

These photos below do not do justice to the beauty and elegance of the homes you see from the ferry ride.

I understand that Ross Perot and Michael Douglas have homes here, but have no idea where. Supposedly they can walk the streets without being accosted by fans or photogs here. Wouldn't mind bumping into Catherine Zeta-Jones on the street!
I heard some news relevant to the blog. I recently reported 2 boats in trouble. A Canadian, who has not been found, and a man with broken ribs, also single handing. He was reported to have been removed from his boat, and the boat left adrift. That was incorrect. The latest is that he refused the lift off the boat, and when it was located again a few days later, they found him in the cockpit, dead. BYS has just been hired to go out, locate, and bring in the boat. Should arrive tomorrow.

Met a fellow this evening on a 54 Hylas, from Charlotte, NC. He was a top manager, or possible partner, I think, with The Oxford Group, for whom I worked at one point, doing the plumbing on one of their condo projects. But he doesn't know the same folks that I know, if you understand me.

So, that is the end of another wonderful day - beautiful weather today - in Bermuda. Going to dink in and find the captain of the Charlotte boat, and have a beer. He sailed a Morgan 46 for 8 months, he said.

Monday

Well, let's see where to start. Generator is shutting off again, with a clogged thru hull. Wifi antenna took a dive yesterday, during a rain storm. And, now, I am really confused about the policy for immigration here.

When I arrived here, I thought that the lady said that I had 2 weeks, could come back to this local office to extend for another week. Another week would have to be requested down in Hamilton - a bus ride. So last Saturday, my 14th day here, I went over in really bad weather, by the way, and the man said, no no no, I had 3 weeks, not 2. So to extend, come back here next Monday. So, today is Monday, and I took my time to get over there, about 11 am, and I met the first jerk I have met in Bermuda. And he said that I had to go to Hamilton to get another week. I had had 3 weeks already, and that was that. So, without going into detail, I am getting up very early tomorrow, catching the bus to Hamilton, and will wait in queue and get this squared away.

After Immigration today, I used the wifi at the green building in previous post, and started a repair ticket with the company that made my wifi antenna.

Was sitting yesterday morning, in a storm, answering an email to Joyce, when the wifi failed. Re-loaded the drivers, tried it on the other laptop, and finally went out and brought the antenna down The silicone seal in the bottom was damp. Rain had gotten into the cabling inside the antenna. Could be that it is fried. I dug out the silicone with a dental pick and put the heat gun on it, and tried it again. It sees all the antennas, and their strength, but cannot log in. Great! So, I am back to dinking into town for internet.

The generator thru hull clogged and this time, the impellor self destructed. I am going to have to put either velcro or a zipper on the generator, if this keeps up. But, the freezer is cold again, and things are moving forward. A few posts ago, I put a picture of it, closed up, but this is it with the impeller blades chewed up.

The new one is installed, and pumping water. So that was my day.

I was hoping to move the boat across the bay for this next blow, but now I am going to Hamilton. And I wanted to catch a fish or 2, really sit and just fish, but that doesn't seem to be in my future now. I came to the Dink Club last night for a couple drinks and wifi, and met a former Piedmont pilot - Norfolk - who is based here with USAir now, rents here and owns a home in Florida. Very nice guy. Frank, a local character, and he and I bought each other a round, and had a lot of fun talking, and laughing and telling lies.

Trivia - Yesterday, I spoke with the owner of the fishing boat that was anchored near me the other day, and kept me aboard until it left. I told him I had awakened with a leg cramp. So, Rx is bananas, of course. But Jevon told me that it is bad luck to have bananas on a fishing boat. Never heard that before, so I asked Frank, the 3rd guy last night - used to be a charter captain and, now, all round raconteur, and found out why. Prior to departing on a fishing trip, Earnest Hemingway said something to the effect that 'What are you doing with bananas on board? We are fishing for Marlin, so we don't need any monkey bait.' And from that, it has become bad luck for a marlin fisherman to bring bananas in his lunch.

Enough for tonight. Will see how Hamilton trip goes.

Sunday

Going to try to get some pictures online here. I am working with the little Acer, and not sure if it will work so well.

I changed the oils in both diesels, and have the steering pretty well taken care of now. Perhaps a bit more bleeding, I am not sure. Planning to depart here late in the week - Friday or Saturday. Will see. Took a few pictures today, but lost the 5 mile WIFI antenna in the rain showers. I awoke early with a terrible leg cramp, so have bought some bananas and hopefully that will not happen again soon. Gotta keep some bananas aboard! Ok - let's see how the pictures work:

This is a picture of my new friends from Halifax's boat. Al, Jean, and Mack, who came out to help me with bending on the jib:

This is a restaurant on the water next door to where I have bought fuel-5 gallons for $30! -taken from the dink in the water.

Bermuda Yacht Services keeps the green building as a free place for cruisers to come, use free wifi and get info:This is The Bermuda Dinghy Club and marina. The 1st floor is Achmed's restaurant - from another post with the fellow who injured his hand, and the 2nd floor is the club, with cheap drinks and good fellowship with other sailors, fishermen, etc.:And a departing sailboat, at dusk, motorsails out towards the town cut - from the balcony of the Dinghy Club.

I am having internet troubles so will have to cut this short for now.

I tink I dota told!

Woke this morning, several times, and rolled back over each time, feeling pretty - sorry Mom - lousy! Right side of head is going to blow up from the sinus pressure, ear is aching just a bit, neck is aching on the right, and I feel terrible. No energy to move. Think I have a cold. Could just be the long dink ride late last night, holding my head in one position to see and steer, but I will know more as the rainy cool day progresses. Finally made my coffee about 11am. Can hardly taste it.

After all the running yesterday, and work on the steering, I finally dinked over to the Barmuda Dinghy Club last night in the dark to do 3 loads of laundry. (There were 2 fellows about 50 yards from me, all day, on an old boat, anchored and fishing. Waved when I went by, etc. But I became hesitant to depart after dark, until they had left, since no one could see them, had they decided to come over and rob AF, after I left. It would have been a crime of opportunity for them, I am sure, but I still was hesitant. Paranoia, perhaps, but extra cautious about so many new things.) The laundry was quite a load to haul, with soap and all. Would like to go into town and use the launderette the locals use, just for the socialization once. It is supposed to be quite a party there everyday. But, I could have internet, and a beer at the Club while things washed, and there has never been anyone else there, to hog the equipment. I took the Acer Aspire I bought just before departure along in the water proof bag Bart and I found at his harbor Freight, to try it on the wifi at the restaurant. Here is a picture of it on top of my regular laptop. Much smaller, easier to carry ashore, pink so I can find it, (I have stopped buying things that are black, distinguished, and manly, because I cannot find them in the shadows anymore), but the keyboard is what you would expect, and I am not sure my chubby little fingers are going to be happy. And, of course, my reading glasses are requisite to read the screen.

When I first went down to the club in the afternoon, Roger (possibly short for Raj) was working and told me Ahmed the owner of the restaurant was under the weather. When I returned last night, Ahmed was there, showing his injury so I had Roger snap a pic or 2 of us. He got his hand caught in a line while docking a 30 foot sailboat last week, and ended up with 30 stitches from the damage done to his hand. Ouch!

He was very nice to me when I was there before, and serves nice food. I really like the pumpkin soup, if it is made. He is a Muslim, married to a Christian woman, the last time I was there, he was cooking for a banquet at his wife's church. Blew up part of another pic for the latest of me. Happy, fat, and needing a shave. Was cool on the dink ride in and out, but moon is beautiful rising here each night the last couple nights and the dink ride in last night was well lighted under an almost full moon.

Bermuda Radio has started to broadcast a pan pan about a boat, giving last known position, with a person injured aboard. No details, but I guess they are hoping a larger vessel will come and take the person off. It does not specify if the person is alone, but probably not.

I downloaded the latest GRIB file for 7 days for my path when I leave. It does not look very good, with a BIG bunch of stuff coming out late next week, and it looks like it will be plenty south of here, in my path. Bart wrote yesterday that he was having bad weather in NC so maybe this is his storm coming offshore. I only download an area from north of Norfolk, east, past Bermuda, and then south to St Maarten.

I had planned to try to finish the steering today, and maybe change oil in the 2 engines, definitely the Perkins, and then take the dink out for a ride for some pictures of stuff I pass every day here, to post. But, instead, I believe I will find some aspirin, and open a book, and try to sleep this mess off.

Goodbye Verizon Internet

I was in the middle of yesterday's post, when my cell phone rang. I did not know the number but decided to answer it, and good thing. Hello, is this Mr Doak? We have data that your cell phone internet card is being used in Bermuda. Did you know that? Well, did you know that your bill is over $8,000.00?

Yup - been sitting out there on the boat, every night, for the last 2 weeks, reading the news, running around the internet, and posting to this blog, and reading and writing emails, to the tune of $8k. Well, when I explained what was going on, they made an accommodation and reduced the bill, to a tiny percentage. But while on hold, I quickly submitted the post without re-reading it or completing it, for that matter, and logged out, and will no longer have instantaneous internet. (Funny thing, they did not offer me the monthly Global plan though, for some reason related to the outdated card I have. Seems the guy at Verizon Wireless (Comp. owned store - not contractor.) sold me a card that was going out of style, with the 3G networks coming on line, and this old one is not part of the "Global Network". I might have joined, now that I see what the difference is.) I will have to do as every other cruiser does, and that is dink to land, and find a free wifi hook-up. So, if you don't hear from me so often, you know why.

(An UPDATE: After returning to the boat this afternoon without the laundry done, by the way, I got out my 5 Mile WiFi Antenna, hoisted it up the main mast on a spare halyard, and lo and behold get great reception from several Wifi spots ashore. So, back on the internet with more regularity. I have replaced the TV with the Internet, I guess!)

I have been working on the steering, and all the connections are complete, and I spent an hour bleeding the system, and gave up, to come ashore. There is a remote chance that I will have to un-do some of it, and tighten some existing connections, and also, add bleeding valves to the system. Right now, I am using Mike in Fl's method, which is turning the wheel at the helm back and forth, over and over a thousand times, or so it seems, so far.

(Another UPDATE: When I returned to AF, I stopped at the helm and put a few dozen more cycles of turns and she is now hitting the stops when turning to port and close on starboard. But, still have about 15 turns, lock to lock, so there is a lot more turning yet to do. But she is coming around. Will see what the pressure on the resevoir reads in the morning, to determine if it all must be un-done, and some fittings tightened.)

Yesterday, I did NOT catch any fish. Maybe I am using too big a hook. Or wrong bait. (Reminds me of a story my dad told about a city fellow who moved to farming country, went to the breeder to buy some chicks, to raise to broilers and sell. Ordered 10,000 chicks. A week later was back and ordered another 10,000. Fellow mentioned that he was impressed with this city boy's spunk, to get into it big like that. City boy says, "Oh, no. The first crop all died." So supplier says it would be a good idea to know what he had done wrong before he commits to another 10,000. City boy says," Well, I have been reading up on farming and think I have it narrowed down to 1 of 2 things. I either planted them too deep or too close together." So goes my fishing, I think. But, today, will finally cut up some bait, and try again. Well, probably tomorrow, now. I was using chicken skins - from some barbecued chicken - but could not devote any time to watching the pole, and actually fishing. I just tied off the pole and checked back every now and then. Put some old, dried out baloney on last night, and lowered it about 6 or 8 feet - shallow enough that I could still see the bait - and it was still there this morning, so I guess it was not deep enough to attract any one's attentions below.

I checked on line today, and the Canadian and US govt's have suspended their search for the lost Canadian, singled handing out of Halifax. If anyone hears of good news in this matter, I would appreciate an email. The article I found said that they had surveyed 152,000 square nautical miles in 18 separate flights, looking for him. It is a big ocean, and with bigger seas lately, so a relatively small 45 ft boat would be hard to find, especially white hull against white wave tops, but it seems to be an end to a fellow's wonderful life at sea. It could have been me.

Well, I guess I will be telling Bart to mail that letter to Verizon soon, cancelling my service. Oh well. The darned thing wasn't good enough to use Skype anyway. This Wifi I am using now, at Bermuda Yacht Service's free to cruisers lounge, is faster than what I had here. I just had to ride in to use it. Brought some laundry and will go up to the laundromat, either the public one here in town, or at the Bermuda Dinghy Club which opens at 4pm, and do a couple loads.

But, all in all, things are moving slowly forward. OK - off to the laundry. More later.

*Back on the boat at 530 pm, no laundry done, still sitting in the dink, for that matter, but I have internet again. Yeah! Will have something to do tonight. (Read most of a novel last night. Will finish tonight after dinner.) In the mean time, I am going in to the dinghy club and do a couple loads, and have a couple beers whilst waiting.

The jib is bent onto the furler now, thanks to Mack, one of my new Canadian friends. I helped them a bit yesterday morning, picked up the jib, did a bit of shopping, and then Mack and I came out to AF and got it properly installed. So, that is one job now complete. Mack is an interesting fellow, having traveled the world in the Canadian Navy, and was even a submariner for a time, I guess. His stories are so many, and varied, it is hard to place him at any one point in time, to what he was doing then. Child hood, navy career, and post career - he jumps around with such great stories and is full of knowledge of places, foods, sailing tips, and the like, it is like scanning through an encyclopedia. I appreciate his time and efforts here yesterday. A good, new friend.

I was going to take the bus to the capital today, to look around, but have decided to stick around and finish the steering, completely, and hopefully, successfully. We are in for some more bad weather, and I don't want to get caught on the capital streets in the rain. But I MUST get down there to see more of the island before my departure.

I picked up some squid bait yesterday, and will wet a hook again today, while working elsewhere on the boat, and hope to hear the rod jump and bang - it will be tied off - with dinner. Triggerfish is most common here where I am anchored and supposedly will have no scales, and a nice white meat for broiling a fillet. Almost too pretty to eat, though, eh? But the same bait could grab up a Grouper, and that would be fantastic, as they are great fighters, and even better suppers!

But not this big! Caught on a hand line, this fellow must have had an all day fight!

Oh, I almost forgot. A friend I made in Baltimore, but from up Pennsylvania way, with the schooner, Island Time sent me this photo so I could post it. Mike has been following the blog, and occasionally sends me the best emails, with lots of thought, and information, descriptions of things. They are always such a pleasure to read. We met in the rain outside the Irish Pub, the night I brought AF back from having her bottom painted in Annapolis, and caroused Fell's Point a bit for a few nights, and had a ball together. He is a thinking man, and we had such good talks together. Mike hopes to someday cut the dock lines and leave, but his work dominates his life today. He just put Island Time on the the hard for the winter, and is already suffering withdrawal pains, as being on a boat can be such therapy to many of us.

Saturday- Government reprieve and plans gone awry

Well, this is supposed to be an adventure, right? So I didn't quite follow the plan for today, which was to finish the steering. Or it didn't follow me. (That little white dot in this picture is AF from Ft. George.)

Blowing like all get out, and of course, I am still in the worst anchorage in the bay, never sheltered from the wind, from any direction, or the waves. And it has been blowing. But, since the Bermuda government gave me 2 weeks, and today is the 14th day, I HAD to go ashore and extend my stay. So, after the batteries were partially charged, I pulled the dink up alongside in this roaring wind, loaded my blue waterproof bag with my documents, and a bag of trash into the dink, bobbing and jerking on a short painter in the waves, and took off for shore. The Canadians I met the other night were "oot and aboot, eh?", and I invited them for a beer, that I owed them from the other night, after I ran my errands. It is the last night the local pub will be open for the season - the place where I drank a beer, and ordered pizza to go my first night here. With the closing tomorrow, they are almost out of everything, and ran out of differen brands of beers as we drank them.

Immigration is great. The fellow there remembered me from 2 weeks ago and that I was in pretty bad shape when I arrived, and told me that I had THREE weeks here, not 2, and to come back next Monday a week, if I needed to extend. Great. Didn't need to leave the boat at all.

I stopped at the free lounge with wifi that Bermuda Yacht Services runs exclusively for boaters, to see what it was like, and then walked up to the hardware store for a new bucket, after loosing mine at sea, when I stupidly tried to draw water from the ocean passing at 5 knots, and when it filled, it jerked the handle right off, and bye-bye, was gone. When am I going to learn? While at the hardware store, I spoke with Chris, one of the counter men there, about fishing and now I am determined to spend more time with a hook in the water. Lots and lots of good edible fish below my boat, and after a 20 year slow down, folks here are now catching 40 and 60 pound groupers from the land!

Asked directions to Ft George, up the hill, where Bermuda Radio - above- the official harbormaster for the island is located, and climbed the hill. Took a couple of pictures while up there, and got into the building to shake the hand of the man who talked me in the day I arrived, as well as the one I was handed off to, and thanked them most sincerely for their patience and kindness, and told them how grateful I am for their help.

That is Annah Foster from a gun mount at the top of the hill with camera zoomed in.

Decided to get a hair cut - my first in a foreign country, and was recommended to Malcolm's and got a nice trim from him. Learned about how the black people here shave, without a razor, as many get bad ingrown hairs. Everyone here is so nice.

Walked back to the pub, and stopped in to see the Canadian's boat and slowly, 2 of them wandered over for a beer with me at the pub. The master, Al, never showed up, as he was in the middle of a project, until way after dark, when he came running to get Mac's help as there was a young fellow, sitting now on his boat, who's dink had come untied and drifted away. I volunteered to take him out to look for it, and lo and behold, it is Drake from last week, who helped me take the jib down. He said he was so glad it was me who showed up. Erin was doing a last load of wash at the launderette, and he had run to the store for last groceries - they are leaving in the morning - and his hard rowable dink was gone. He has years single handing and I cannot believe his knots would not hold.

So, with my dink a bit low on fuel, the prop failing, and no good spot light, we putt-ed away from the lights of the harbor dock and started looking for the dink in the dark, discussing the tides, current, and wind direction, and where it might be. Unfortunately, they all pointed towards the Town Cut, and the Atlantic Ocean. He had only been ashore an hour. The wind was howling, the waves were splashing big up and over our bow soaking us good, and we scanned the shore, hoping it had run aground close by, while riding all the way down to the Cut, and decided to cross over it, the channel, that is, and look on the shore of the island opposite.

And bang - we ran hard aground, or the engine did. A rock or coral reef, right at the edge of the Cut - it really IS a cut - and the engine stopped, sitting on hard ground and is holding us fast where we are, and the rest of the dink is bouncing in the waves and tide, and it is dark, and we have no light, and the tide is going out, and there are sea monsters waiting to eat us when we sink, after the wind and tide take us out into the Atlantic, which at that point is not a mile away! I got the engine re-started, and Drake used the longer hand pump as a pole to push us up and over this little reef, and we headed back towards where we had come from, and safety. And, both of us, nervously, laughed at our close call. What a night.

I dropped him back at the dock, and rode out to, again belatedly, turn on AF's anchor light, change into dry clothing - rain suit actually, got my hand held spotlight, and returned to pick up Erin with the groceries, and then Drake with the laundry and take them home to their boat. When I returned to the pub, it was empty, so Chris, the bartender and I sat and drank a few, and told some stories, and then he and the kitchen staff locked the doors, and we did it all again, just staff, and me. And no tab! On the house Can you beat that?

When I returned to AF a few minutes ago, I thought to myself, that I am having so much fun, it should be illegal. What a great day!

BTW, Drake and I agreed, that he will ask the Harbormaster, if his dink is not found tomorrow morning, but shows up later after his departure, to give it over to me, to ride somewhere on AF and I will find them in St Maarten, and return it to them. Hopefully it is sitting somewhere aground, in plain sight tomorrow morning, because I just don't know where I will put it for the 1000 mile trip.

The adventure with Drake has reminded me that there is no one here, waiting for me, if I don't come back to the boat, or return to shore. No one to call the authorities to start a look for me, if I fall off the dink, in rough weather, or the engine fails, and I drift out to sea in the dark. So, I am going to try to work at keeping the dink better stocked with stuff, should something like that happen. But in the end, it will be all part of my adventure.

Friday after Thanksgiving

One year ago today, I was sailing with Paul and Joyce - Norfolk to St. Maarten - and had had a wonderful and complete Thanksgiving meal aboard, except for the pumpkin pie. Up to that point, I had lived while en route north, at the helm, only coming below in a run, to start the water boiling, or make the coffee, or pour the coffee, or wash a dish. I learned so much from them on that trip about how to live below while underway. How to cook while underway. Basically, life aboard at sea. Showers daily. (Oops - have modified that one a bit!) Trimming sails with Paul, late one night, he would show me how just a subtle change in one little aspect of a sail's shape could pick up a half a knot in speed. Other than my first touch of seasickness, for which I still feel guilty, as I slept long periods from the Dramamine for almost 3 days, although still taking my watch each evening, it was a fantastic experience, with 2 wonderful friends. I appreciate that they thought enough of me to invite me along. Joyce would have no way to know this, but I picked up several of her ways and copied things she did, like keeping an old coffee container to keep the 'slops' in at the galley sink, and pitching these 'organics' overboard when it got full, at sea only, of course. ( I remember when every kitchen had a place to put the peelings, and egg shells, and coffee grounds, in the corner of the sink, and it was a nasty job to take it out back and put it into the compost pile. No, you environmentalists didn't invent composting.) Slowly, I am developing my own ways and rhythms, but that 2 weeks with them gave me an example on which to base my own lifestyle. I appreciate them both so much, and really look forward to meeting up soon. You guys are just great friends, and I cherish you.

As is so often the case, the best plans don't go as intended, and so went yesterday. After running the generator to get a good charge on the batteries and reefers cold, I prepared my flare fittings with a touch of teflon tape(shh! You're not supposed to put teflon tape on hydraulic fittings.) and practiced a couple flares with this flaring tool. Then, headed back to start to rebuild this one section of the steering, in copper, eliminating the plastic tubing. There are 3 inlet/outlet ports on the top of the hydraulic pump, each, now, with a brass compression 90 degree elbow coming out, and continuing in the plastic. Well, flare fittings, by design are longer necked, and when I inserted the first, it is too long to thread into the port, because the 90 degree hits the next fitting. The ports are too close together on the pump. Damn! So there went the whole plan. I have thought of moving the pump and could re-position it, I think, so that the ports are on its side, and I could use straight fittings, but I would need to build a shelf first, and that is not too easy for me right now.
So I brushed my hair and put on a t-shirt, and loaded the dink with my smelly trash, and headed to the hardware store, where I bought compression fittings, to try. Then motored over to town, to the dumpster (Goodbye stinky mahi-mahi and pizza.) , and then walked up the hill to the sail loft. My jib is ready, and the cost was not as bad as expected, but we agreed, if someone was going to come out and help me get her back on the furler, it would have to wait until Monday, because of the blow which started over night, and is howling a bit as I type now. 30 knots expected with gale force gusts, again, are coming fast. So I wandered back into town to the little pub for a beer. Met a fellow from the research vessel based here, a reasonable and very interesting environmental scientist, and we shared about an hour's conversation. Walked over to see an Amel, like Paul's, with Hickory NC on the stern, but they were not so nice folks, and definitely not North Carolinians. The boat is based at a marina in Maryland. And then stopped to talk to some Canadians whom I had seen towed in the other night. They invited me for a beer, and we visited for over an hour. By the time I left them, it was long after dark, and AF's anchor light was not turned on.
So, some left over pasta for Turkey Day dinner (far from the feast Paul and Joyce put out last year), and a couple bite size Snickers and Milky Ways, for pumpkin pie substitute, and off to bed. UPDATE: I decided later today, to add this bit of info about a missing boat and sailor. The Canadians with whom I spent the evening last night are mentioned in the following article, and have his book aboard, and have met him several times: http://www.vancouversun.com/Sister+hopeful+missing+Halifax+sailor+will+found/2245834/story.html
The missing sailor/adventurer is named Hubert Marcoux, and he is also a single hander, but, unlike me, with many years of experience. His boat's name is Mon Pays, which is French for My Homeland. Bermuda Radio has been putting out a Pan Pan broadcast about him which started just a few days after I arrived. The folks I drank with last night were called almost immediately after he missed his arrival date, on their sat phone, by the Canadian authorities inquiring about winds, currents, drift rates, etc, in order to try to designate a search area for this man. I cannot help thinking that this could have been me and I pray for his safety every day. If he shows up anywhere in the news, would someone inform me, please? At this point, I believe it is a lost cause.

Woke this morning dreaming that Bermuda Radio was calling me by name. "Dennis Doak. Dennis Doak. This is Bermuda Radio, on channel 27!" So, was up early and still have not made coffee. Spoke to Bart about picking me up another small inverter at Harbor Freight, this morning if possible.
Will make the coffee, run the genny, and get started on the Plan B repair, and see how that goes.
Have a good holiday weekend, all, and be safe.

Things are turning around

This morning's chore, after coffee and internet, was getting the generator running. I only lost one nut of the 4 on the pump, while getting it back on. But it is running perfectly again. Then, I decided to be more proactive with the wet laptop issue. The other day I took the battery out, and the hard drive, and opened the only other part of the case I could to let everything air out and maybe dry. So with the genny making 110 volts AC, I dug out the heat gun - what, no blow dryer aboard, you ask, Paul? and blasted the hard drive with the heat gun and got it warm - almost hot to the touch and put it under the work bench like Wes had suggested, with the fridge compressor putting out heat and blowing air. Now, I have just re-assembled it and I am typing on it again. No apparent damage. That is good news, so things are progressing, in a positive way and forward for a change -not backwards. Well, mostly anyway. Will discuss the outboard motor propeller trouble later.

I also went back and put some turns on the rudder post nut. The top nut was turning by hand, so the trip and all the big seas really worked on it pretty good, or I guess it is possible that Wes re-packed it with Charmin. Who knows? You know Baltimore marine technicians. The nut requires an 18 inch pipe wrench, it is so large, and I am not sure if I have done enough to actually stop the water, but will check it later again. It was pretty wet, and became even more wet with my playing around with the nut. I really would like to stop hearing the bilge pump come on, that's for sure. Not exactly sure what I am doing there and like so many things, it is something else to learn. Oh, and by the way, just because a pipe wrench says aluminum, the JAWS are still steel and rust!

I have cleaned up the aft cabin some, and laid out all I need to start the hydraulic job. And I still have to close up the stuff I was working on peripheral to the generator, but will leave the sound proofing covers off for now, so it can run a bit cooler, with the port in the engine room opened for a bit of breeze and heat exhaust. (It sounds kinda scary with the port open when I go topside. I am not used to hearing anything coming out of the side of the boat like that) I ran it until I had 13.5 volts on batteries and the charge rate was down in the low teens amperage - AND the freezer is showing 20 degrees, but that will change fast, as things re-freeze, so I think I will run it an hour tonight after dark.

I am not sure if it is proper to discuss this publicly, but I will anyway, since most who read this know me pretty well. I am scared to death of things that live in the ocean, just below the boat, big fish, like sharks, and sea monsters, and octopi, and baracuda's. (When my GF visited me in Key Biscayne, in the marina, late at night, when the water looks like black ink reflecting the stars and moon, we often would take a quick skinny dip before bed. Everytime we headed back to the boat, it would creep into the back of my mind - Is something just behind me, ready to clamp down on my leg?) I have scuba dived several times and loved it, and snorkeled a lot, and own this thing called a hookah, which is a 12 volt compressor with air lines, and regulators, so you can 'scuba or snorkel' down to 60 ft, without having to wear a tank of compressed air. I bought it primarily to be able to go beneath the boat and work, should something happen that required it, or to scrub the growth off the bottom. Or, to just go out and enjoy a reef, and sight see below. Work or pleasure. Well, the other day, I had to dive on the bottom to see if I could see or pull out whatever was lodged in the generator's cooling line thru hull. Didn't need anything but a bathing suit and face mask. You would have laughed at me, standing on the ladder just above the waterline, diving mask on, big fat butt hanging, holding on to the line I always hang down into the water ( so I can pull my fat butt up the ladder, and also to grab should AF start going away, or the current takes me away - 2 MORE fears.) So, there I am, hanging, paused, cussing myself silently for being a chicken, and scared to death to drop into the water (temp 72, I just heard) because I am afraid of the things that live down there. You know, one of them could come up and bite me! What a mess. I told my friend Wes and the exchanges sort of got out of hand, with his last effort saying that he had just seen on Discovery Channel, that at this time of year, all the world's baracuda's migrate to Bermuda for mating, and how hungry they are when they arrive. He attached a 16 minute segment of Diver Dan from 1961 when he captured Baron Baracuda. He asked if I had put anything UP the thru hull hole to clean it, and I replied that I had put a finger tip in each, but not for long, in case there was something in there waiting to bite my finger tip off! What a child I am, sometimes. How the heck am I ever going to live on a boat successfully with these kind of childish fears?

I have asked my friend and mentor, Paul, in Guatemala to start looking at weather for a possible departure next week, possibly late. I have to extend my stay with Immigration before Saturday, and they will give me a week more, I believe. And, if I buy my fuel as I depart, it will be duty-free. A little trivia - the hardware store guy said he went away for a few days, and when he returned, they had sold 60 - 5 gallon diesel cans to all the sailors who had to come in. What does that tell you? I would like to order some duty free smokes and rum, I guess, too. They deliver to Customs House and they hold it until your final check out., when they also give back your flare guns, firearms, and spear guns - I hope.

Since the food had thawed because of the freezer not running, I have brought out a bag of pasta, boiled water, and heated some thawed sauce that had been frozen, and now, have had my fill of Rotini and meat sauce. And my Thanksgiving meal tomorrow will be Italian-American leftovers, I guess. I have made my version of a dark and stormy - rum and ginger ale, and put on some of what I have on the computer as "Lady H Music" and will find a book, and read til I fall asleep. But to all of you back in the US, have a great day, good food, football on TV, and enjoy your families. Eat a piece of pie for me. And try to remember why they give you the day off, in the first place.

A brush with fame

I have been busy all morning working on the generator trouble, and have re-routed the cooling water hose to a different thru-hull with much better flow, so must just get the pump back into place on the generator and I can finally run it. There still is something clogging the proper thru-hull but I can work on that some other time. For now, I do not anticipate running the air conditioning any time soon.

Yesterday, I noticed this beautiful old ketch, photo below, sitting across from the Customs dock on my way to the hardward store - we park the dinks just forward of this boat, so I have to walk by what ever is tied up there. Today, when I went in, about noon, I stopped and asked the mate about her. While we traded stories,( he single hands a 50 ft Beneteau supposedly and calls the bar that Paul, Joyce and I used last year at the Lagoon in St. Maarten for internet, his 'office'.), his captain came up and I asked him some more specific questions, such as the name Gadget, and the apparent trademark infraction printing of the cartoon character on the stern. Turns out the owner is the producer of a number of shows, and developed the Inspector Gadget series and movie. BUT, guess who the original owner was? It is Walter Cronkite's last boat - and the chair at the helm still has the brass plaque with Walter's Seat inscribed. There is a popular photo of the Clinton's sailing aboard her in his last years. She is a beautiful, well-cared for boat, a year or 2 older than my Annah Foster, and was custom built for him in Wilmington NC.

So, after leaving Gadget, I walked over to the grocery for a take out box lunch, and wandered around a bit until close to the time for the Queen's visit. I have written a couple times this week, that I wouldn't stand in line to meet a Hollywood star or any American politician, but there is something different about the queen of England. My mom would have loved this, I think, as Elizabeth's coronation was such a big event, and they were close enough in age that Mom could identify some way. I found a fence area, behind the stage, where no one at all was standing, but as her arrival time approached, it filled up on both sides of me and behind, including, on my left, several elderly men in wheelchairs who had served Bermuda, in both Eqypt and Italy, in WW2. We spoke a bit, I thanked them for their service, and we made a few jokes and then I left them alone.

I believe that today I heard the only 21 gun salute, live, that I will ever hear in my lifetime. The honor, which shocked everyone at first volley, was for the approaching queen, timed perfectly for the last volley to fire as her car turned into the square. The custom started, as I understand it, as a naval courtesy. A visiting war ship would fire all of it guns as it entered a foreign harbor, to demonstrate that they were empty and the ship had no bellicose or miltitary intentions. It later became a tradition to fire at least one shot as a ship approached a foreign harbor, as an honor, and continued up the chain from there to 21 guns. Or so I believe.

The queen exited her vehicle out of sight from me and first appeared, walking.

She mounted the steps on this little platform to be met by the commander of her honor guard, and then walked an inspection line with him.

Afterwards, she was introduced to the dignitaries waiting in a greeting line, and then disappeared from my sight into the Town Hall on my my right, and someone lead 3 children up holding the flowers to present to her when she exited the building.

After receiving the flowers from the children she headed my way, and the photo below was taken with no zoom at all. She got so close, that I put the camera into my pocket out of respect. I was actually shocked to see her approaching. She walked up to the fence within 3 feet of me and smiled, and I sort of stepped back, a half pace, since she was here to greet her subjects, not some old, fat American. But she looked at me and smiled and moved on. But suddenly, someone was standing right in front of me. It was Prince Phillip, and he is looking me in the eye and talking to ME, asking if I was the caregiver to these old gentleman, to which I replied, "No Sir. I am just an American who sought shelter here from a storm last week aboard my sailboat. But these men are some of your veterans from WW2." He nodded and turned to them, and then stopped, and turned his head, and over his shoulder asked me how my vessel was, to which I replied, "Just a bit of mending needed, sir." And he winked, and nodded, and moved on.

Well, that about does it for me. Touched an American icon's boat, and talked to royalty, all in one day. Time to get back to the real world and get that generator fixed. I am sure glad that I took that shower and shaved this morning, and put on a clean shirt.

Queen's Visit Day

The other day, with the help of Drake and newly arrived gf, Erin, I got the jib down and folded - thanks Erin - and tied up to put into the dink, for a ride ashore to the sail loft. Below, you can see the huge and rather heavy bundle sitting waiting, to be placed.......

here, in the dink, along side. It was so heavy, and awkward, that I even tied a rope on it, in case I dropped it overboard, instead of into the dink. And there was almost no room left in the dink for my big butt!

I have been struggling for 2 days on the Westerbeke generator. It is not putting out enough cooling water from the exhaust, and seems to overheat and shut down. I run it to charge the batteries, and to get the 110v AC refridgerator cold, which is a pain, and that is why I have bought a 12 volt system for both the fridge and the freezer. The 12volt systems will be automatic and run on the batteries. With the wind generator and the solar panels installed, with careful use of electricity, I may not have to run the generator at all someday. But for now, it is at least a once a day chore.

The way it works is this: The engine has an enclosed cooling system, with antifreeze and water, just like any other engine, but instead of circulating thru a radiator with a fan blowing air thru it, it goes thru a seawater heat exchanger; the seawater is sucked in thru a hole in the bottom of the boat with a valve, called a thru hull, thru a strainer to get out any trash or seaweed, and then once thru the heat exchanger, it is pumped out with the engine exhaust. When it is running correctly, it makes a regular and steady gurgle type noise as it exits at the stern. (It also serves to cool down the exhaust, as well.) BTW, the Perkins engine works the same way.

So, when it is not cooling properly, the engine has an overheat kill switch, and shuts down. The first thing to do is look into the sea strainer, for trash. Often, if it has shut down, the pump has been spinning with no water flow and you find it has eaten the blades of a rubber pump inpeller, and that is the job I have been doing - getting to the pump, removing it, and opening it to replace this impellor. Well, I got it all out last night, and the impellor is fine. And I have to put it all back together again, and then figure out what is impeding the water flow.

I dove on the boat the other day, quickly, with just a face mask and saw nothing sticking out of the thru hull from outside, but eventually, using the foot pump that fills the dink with air, was able to blast out the obstruction. Well, I guess it is not completely cleared, and now have to come up with another solution.

This is the raw water pump, removed and sitting on the salon table. I was disappointed to find the impeller in perfect shape, after all the work to remove the pump.

This is the Westerbeke, with the sound proofing cover removed on the front and top and rear.

There is another thru hull close by, which is piped to cool the air conditioners, and I am in the process now of removing its hose to compare the free water flow when I open each thru hull. if there is considerable more flow in the 2nd, I will re-pipe the generator hose into it. It is a real pain to get an old hose off of its fitting, as anyone who has worked on a car radiator or heater can tell you. And that is where I stand right now with the project.

On a brighter note, on one of my walks to the hardware store, yesterday, I took the camera and this is one shot of Annah Foster on anchor. She looks so lonely and vulnerable sitting there to me. I am just not used to leaving her alone yet, and always have a moment of apprehension when returning in the dink, if I cannot immediately spot her. It is just the same as locking your front door and driving to town, but imagine returning to find your house down on the other end of the street! She can move while I am away, if something causes the anchor to drag, and I am just going to have to get used to it.
A close up -

So, back to the trouble with the generator, and I am holding off running the engine for a couple reasons. It heats the engine room and I have to work in there, and I want to have some hot water for a shower, so I can get to shore for the queen's visit. So, check back, there might be a picture or 2 of Queen Elizabeth II.